Experimental Electric Vehicles

Zero Motorcycle Quick Chargers

Fast charging goals –

-Travel more than the 100 miles of the standard range allows.

-Add a reasonable charge rate without large sacrificing weight, style, reliability.

-Plug and play,  I want to arrive and just plug-in, not more than 10 seconds.

-Flexibility.  The system I designed here will allow for wattages of 1000, 1300, 2000, 2300, and  3300.  This allows for charging on MANY different, and multiple outlets.

-Eliminate the Calex (on-board 1,300 watt charger) as primary daily use charger. As these are failure prone.




So heres what I did.

I waited patiently and eventually found someone parting ways with their Delta-Q chargers (you NEED to get the ones specifically designed for Zero Motorcycles, they have special software).  I got them for $300 each!

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YAY – New (to me) chargers.  In a UGLY yellow 😦


Oddly enough the charger brackets literally align PERFECTLY with the front frame rail M5 threaded inserts (was this on purpose Zero?) But after some trail fitting I found my leg would likely hit the charger a lot and I don’t like bruised chins (ouch!!)… SO I devised a small aluminum bracket to move the chargers forward, down, and slightly angled.  This will allow for leg clearance (i’m 5′ 11″ for reference) and give them a better appearance on the bike, rather than 2 big ole’ boxes slapped on the sides.  I’ve found its very hard to make battery chargers look “Sexy” but i’m trying!

Tech Tip – All I used was a jig-saw with a metal blade to cut this out!  Patience, spare blades, and a file can work magic on Aluminum.  Source – McMasterCarr.com


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Unfortunately this left for one heck of an awkward rear bracket.  I decided to use one of my favorite materials for this, Sintra!  (Its PVC plastic board, I have a link on the site on how-to use this stuff).  With some CAD I was able to make a template.  I traced it on the Sintra and used a jig-saw to make the rear brackets.


Now with some nice M5 and M6 stainless steel hardware and Nylon lock nuts (McMasterCarr.com) I installed the charger!  YAY, looks nice!

But wait… How’d it turn black?  Oh yea, I literally took it apart, taped everything and painted them.  It was a pain, but totally worth the effort.

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I removed the tops, 8 small screws and sanded them down with 400 grit paper.  I used VHT 500F roll-bar/Chassis satin black paint.  This stuff is VERY durable!

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Use a heat gun and remove all the CE and UL stickers… Yea we know they are safe and certified Yetta Yetta Yetta…

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Use LOTS of tape, and paint away.


For a REALLY cool look add some (real!) Carbon fiber.  I found this stuff at https://dragonplate.com/

All you use is tin-Snips and you cut out the shape you want.  Then peel the adhesive layer and stick it on!  I covered two of the center screw holes, so simply back-drill them again for access.


Now thats one SEXY charger 😀

Wiring up the chargers!  Here you actually have some options from simple to complicated.   But lets break down the wiring first… There are 2 sides to a charger, the AC input side, and the DC output side.

On the AC input side you have some options.

1- Simply leave the 120/240V IEC connecters in place, and make some adapters to use them on common plugs (or individual 120V outlets for each charger).

2- Wire them together to a J1772 outlet mounted on the bike using IEC cords.  This allows for the individual Delta-Q chargers to be disconnected for flexibility in system wattage, or adjust if there is a failure.

I chose the second option, as I like to arrive at a charge station and plug-in quickly.  I also MUCH prefer a sturdy mounted J1772 port not loose adapters that slide around in luggage cases, or sit in puddles.


Mounting the J1772 outlet on the bike.  Again, Cardboard template and Aluminum cut by Jigsaw.


There are 2X plastic plugs that are pushed into the battery housing.  These were for the Long Lost Chademo Level-3 connector we all long for… But they will suffice for a great Level-2 J1772 inlet.  $140 –  Source – https://shop.quickchargepower.com/J1772-Socket-with-40-Amp-cable-attached-JSC40.htm



On the DC side, again you have two choices.

1- Use the factory Zero “Y” cable ($250 OUCH!) and simply cram, zip-tie, and hide the wiring as good as possible under the tank area.  This is possible, but there is a LOT of extra wire on the DC side. But requires NO soldering, cutting, splicing etc… If you don’t have the tools or skills this is a great option.

Y-cable – https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_5&products_id=196

2- Cut the DC wiring, shorten it,  and splice them to a SINGLE brown Anderson AUX output plug.  Then fish the wires thru the tank area and down to the AUX input plug.  Yes, this is a PAIN, but will look much nicer and save you $250.

I chose the second method… Basically because i’m cheap and have the tools/knowledge to make custom cables.

Side Note:  If you are unsure what you are doing here, STOP.  You can hurt yourself or damage equipment.  There are plenty of helpful Zero forums to ask questions if you need assistance.






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